Give Yourself A Professional Manicure At Home

As the pandemic moved into our lives, going for professional manicures moved out. Like many people, I was not comfortable sitting face to face with someone I barely knew, even with masks on, just to get a mani. I’m still not. So researched the best products, polishes and tools I would need to give myself a professional looking manicure at home.

Nevertheless, I am a lady who likes to have her nails done. So, in an effort to stay safe and save money, I started doing my nails myself. Yes, ladies, you can give yourself a professional manicure at home.

Almost anyone can paint their own nails whereas I like a gel manicure base. It keeps my nails from breaking and my polish stays on longer. But giving yourself a professional gel manicure at home requires specific equipment, and part of doing any job correctly is having the right tools.

This meant I needed to research the crap out of everything I needed before buying. How else would I know I was getting all the right features at the best price? So down the rabbit hole I went. I suggest you settle in, because there’s a lot to unpack.

Keep reading to discover the best products, polishes and tools to achieve a professional looking manicure at home. As well as some helpful tips and tricks I picked up along the way.

Table of Contents

• Remover
• Clip
• Cuticles

Remover 

Any good mani or pedi starts with a clean palette. Depending on what type of polish you have on – regular or gel – will determine what type of remover you need to use: acetone or non-acetone. 

• Acetone is a very strong, clear solvent with a harsh smell. It is highly flammable so use in a well-ventilated area, away from open flames. 
• Non-acetone remover uses ethyl acetate as its solvent. It too is colorless and flammable.

Both are solvents but only acetone will remove gel, powder or acrylic. While acetone will remove regular nail polish faster, a non-acetone remover is gentler and less drying to natural nails. Only use acetone remover on stubborn polish with glitter or to soak off gel, acrylic or powder. I love the convenience of having my polish remover and alcohol (more on that under gel) handy in spill-proof pump dispensers. The dispensers I have are pictured below right.

If you don’t want to soak your fingertips in acetone, try using specially designed clips to secure cotton balls soaked in acetone. Below left is a great starter kit that I bought, it comes with a lot of the basic tools you need. I’ve also tried the foils, below right, which come with pre-attached remover pads (not pre-soaked). If you only want to remove the top layer of gel polish and not your gel or acrylic base, which is what I do, opt to file the gel off with an electric file drill, more at that below under Files.

Clip

Prepare your nails before polishing by cutting the tips to even out the length and file to your desired shape. I love the professional 3-in-1 nail clipper for my fingernails. Depending on the angle you hold the clipper to your nails, you can achieve a round cut, straight or well-cut. Click on this link or the one in the 3-in-1 clipper pictured below left to see how. For my toe nails, I prefer the clipper (below center) that has a clipping catcher compartment in the base to collect the clippings as you cut. Need a different grip? Try the 360 degree rotating clipper pictured below far right. 

Cuticles

Basically, manicurists push your cuticles back for two reasons: The first is aesthetics; it makes your nails look longer. The second reason is more practical. Since cuticles grow on top of your nail beds, if polish or gel is applied on top of the cuticle, the cuticle will cause the gel or polish to lift and flake off as the cuticle continues to grow underneath it.

Cuticles protect both your nails and the surrounding skin from infection. Cutting the cuticle makes it easier for germs and bacteria to get in. So whether your going to a salon or doing your own nails at home, be sure to only push, not cut, your cuticles. Trim only loose skin and hangnails. More on cuticle care along with cuticle oils and creams, below.

File

You’re going to think I’m nuts, but there is a ridiculous amount to know about nail files. Can you just imagine me researching this?! First, I’m gonna tell you what I learned, because everyone should make an educated decision on what works best for their type of nails. Then, I’ll tell you what I got/use.

If you want to skip today’s lesson, feel free to jump to the end of this section to Which Files I Recommend. 

Nail Files/Emery Boards

Soooo, nail files come in different grades of grit, that is, how coarse or fine they are, which you probably already know. What you might not know is what the grit numbers are, what they mean and when to use which. For starters, note that…

• The lower the number, the coarser the grit
• The higher the number, the softer or finer the grit

Since most nail files, or Emery boards, have two sides, each side will have a number telling you the grit grade. If the number is the same on both sides of the file, than the grit is the same on both sides. For instance, a 180/180 will have the same grit on both sides, while a 100/180 file will have one side that is coarser than the other.

Depending on what type of manicure you’re doing, choose the right grit for the job:

• 80 Grit – This is the coarsest on the market and should only be used to file acrylic nails. It can be used on UV gel or powder, but reduce the amount of pressure you apply while filing.
• 100 Grit – Ideal for filing down gel, nail length and shaping.
• 150 Grit – Should be used to shape the whole nail and gently file the surface of any lifting UV gel prior to applying new product.
• 180 Grit – Used to contour the whole nail, prep an LED/UV gelled nail surface before applying new product, and to shorten or shape the natural free nail edge. 
• 240 Grit – Due to its finer surface, this is best used to prep the natural nail surface before applying UV gel polish.

Nail Buffing Blocks

Buffing blocks have grit numbers too, like files, but they are made with sponge, which makes them more delicate and softer than a hard file. I know, it’s a lot! Probably more than you need to know but I’ve come this far so there’s no stopping now.

220/280 – Used to eliminate ridges from natural nails and scratches on acrylic nails, providing a smooth surface for nail polish application.

600/4000 – This ultra fine buffer, usually green on one side and white on the other, is used for buffing nails to a shine. It is most often used in men’s manicures. 

Electric File Drill

Just when you thought we were done with files, I have one more for you: the electric nail file drill. I’m sure you’ve seen them at the nail salon. For gel and acrylic nails, an electric file drill can save you time and be less tiring for your arms. They come with several attachments that range in grit, like the nail files discussed above. 

The main things to look for in a good electric nail file drill are:

• Adjustable speed
• Adjustable direction (which way the drill spins)
• Light weight
• Quiet
• Easy to operate
• Comes with a variety of file bits.

I have the green one pictured below and I’m very happy with it. Plus, it comes with a cuticle cutter and nail brush. It’s also available in pink as well as in other bit configurations.

File Dust Collector

If all this filing has got you thinking about the mess it’s going to make, I got you. I bought a dust collector that is similar to the ones you see manicurists using at the salon. You file your nails over it and a fan works like a vacuum, pulling the dust into a filter. It really does help minimize the mess. Below is the one I have and it does not have writing printed on the arm rest even though it shows it in the photos. Mine looks like the dust collector pictured below far right.

Which Files I Recommend

On natural nails, a 180 grit file is good. If you have soft nails, a 240 grit file might be better. I don’t recommend using a grit higher than 240 on the surface of natural nails.

To remove gel, I alternate between a 100 and a 180 grit nail file by hand or with the nail drill. If you plan to soak off your gel or powder polish, use a 180 grit file on the surface first to break through the top coat before soaking or securing acetone remover with clips or foil. Once the gel polish is completely removed, gently buff the nail with a 180 grit buffer if needed. But be gentle so you’re not thinning your own nail. 

For acrylic nails, which are harder than gel, you’re going to have to apply some pressure with the 100 grit side to shorten the length and reduce the surface build up. Or use the electric nail drill. Then switch to the finer 180 side for smoothing and shaping. 

Shape

Now that you know what tools to use to cut and file your nails, you need to decide what shape and length you want. Depending on your lifestyle, personal preference and how strong and healthy your nails are, here are the most popular nail shapes:

Clean

No matter what type of manicure you’re giving yourself, you need to start with a clean, dry nail surface. Use a kabuki brush or nail brush to clean away any debris left behind from filing instead of washing your hands. If you don’t buy a starter kit that comes with a brush, like the one I feature above under Remove, they’re inexpensive enough to buy separately and come in different styles, as you can see below.

Regular Manicure

If you’re giving yourself a regular manicure, I’m pretty sure you know routine…Apply:

• One coat of base coat – Do not skip the base coat, ladies. It keeps your nails from staining, drying out, helps the polish adhere, and will give your polish a smoother, more even texture.
• Two thin, even coats of color polish/lacquer – It’s best to let the first coat dry before applying the second coat but, I confess, I do not. Honestly, I don’t think anyone does.
• Wrap – Paint the polish around the top edge of your nail tips, thereby wrapping the tip. If you stop at the tip, it leaves the polish more prone to chips and cracks. By wrapping the tip, you create a seal that makes the manicure harder to damage. 
• One coat of top coat – Don’t skip this step either if you want your polish to last more than a day or two. Top coat acts as a sealer, adds shine and helps prevent chipping. You should also wrap the top coat over your tips. 
• Dry – It’s so important to let your polish dry completely. Not only will you avoid tiny nicks that will flaw your previously flawless manicure, but it will help your mani last longer. Even though they may feel dry on the surface, most polishes aren’t completely hardened for nearly an hour!

To speed dry time, you can use a top coat that is fast drying, I like Seche Vite Dry Fast Top Coat, as well as a quick dry product. I use one by Nail Tek, see below.

When your nails are dry, finish with a cuticle oil that will nourish your cuticles and nails. Yes, even with polish on, cuticle oil will also add back moisture to your nails that was lost to polish remover and filing. See more on the benefits of cuticle oil as well as tips on how to make your manicure last, below. 

Gel Manicure

If you’re giving yourself a gel manicure, you’ve got to add a few steps and some specific equipment. It does take longer but, in the end, there’s no dry time and your manicure should last two weeks or longer. Mine do! 

Dehydrate & Prime  

Gel manicures require the nails to be specially prepped or the gel won’t adhere and last.  Whether you’re using gel polish on your natural nails or a building gel as a base to strengthen or extend your nails (which is what I do), you’re going to need to do the following: 

There are lots of companies making good products for these steps, from IBD to Orly. I’ve tried a few different brands and the one I’ve had the best results with is IBD…no lifting gel, just a long lasting manicure.

Tip: When I first started giving myself gel manicures, I used a permanent marker to write 1 on the dehydrator top and 2 on the bonding primer top so I wouldn’t mess up the order in which they need to be applied (I have a head like a sieve).

Building Gel & Nail Forms

I always apply a gel base, I find it makes my nails virtually indestructible. Plus, my regular color polish stays on longer and doesn’t chip. But life happens, so when a nail does break, I use a nail form to extend my nail tip with building gel to the same length as my other nails. 

Building gel, or hard gel, is available in a pot or a bottle. The gel in the pot needs to be applied with a small artist’s brush, like the ones pictured below. I like this inexpensive set of brushes because the bristles don’t shed. Picking brush hairs out of gel is not easy. The set comes with 7 brush sizes so you always have the right brush handy.

The gel in a bottle comes with it’s own brush in the cap, like a regular nail polish bottle. I’ve tried both the bottle and the pot and I find they are equally easy to use, so this comes down to personal preference. If I had to choose one or the other for you to start with, I’d recommend the gel in the bottle since you’re already accustomed to applying polish in that format. I’ve used both IBD and Orly’s GelFX Builder in a Bottle and IBD’s Building Gel in a pot with good results.

Whichever one you use, apply 1-3 coats of gel, as needed, to build a gel base or fill-in an existing base that has grown out. I recommend curing the gel for 10 seconds after each coat to stabilize it since most gels are self-leveling and may shift while you’re doing the other hand. Then finish with a final curing of 30-60 seconds.

Tips:

• If you use the gel in the pot, do not leave it uncovered near the LED/UV light or use it outside – it will cure the top layer of gel, creating a skin, like old fashioned pudding (alas, I date myself). I speak from experience. Always put the lid on your gel before curing and keep the gel brush away from the LED/UV light or the gel will cure on brush.
• To clean the UV gel off the artist’s brush, simply wipe it with a lint free pad, see below. If the metal band is sticky, use a lint free wipe with some alcohol. If gel cured on brush, immediately soak it in some acetone and rinse clean. You don’t want to over clean your bristles or they will dry out.

If you’re happy with the shape and have a smooth, even surface, you can just use a buffing block to file off the shiny surface. Remove the file dust with a nail brush and you’re ready to apply gel color or regular nail polish. You must do both of these steps – wipe the gel with alcohol and buff out the shine – or your polish won’t adhere and your mani won’t last.

If you have a broken nail you want to extend it, use a nail form. Nail forms are those horseshoe shaped stickers you see the manicurists use to make free-hand nail extensions. It takes some practice to get them on correctly – they need to be positioned snuggle under your natural nail and flush with the tip. They are inexpensive for a large quantity so there are plenty of extras for you to practice with. I like the nail forms I got but they’re all pretty much the same. 

Once you get the nail form on, use the building gel to paint an extension on the nail form from your natural nail and beyond the tip, using the grids on the nail form to guide you. Don’t worry if it’s not perfectly shaped since you will clip the tip with your angled nail clipper to get it down to the size and then file to shape and smooth. There are tons of videos available on the Internet to give you tutorials. 

If you apply just tips, I recommend applying a couple of coats of building gel over your natural nails and tips to bond and strengthen them – remember to cure the gel for 10 seconds after each coat to stabilize it since most gels are self-leveling and may shift while you’re doing the other hand. Then finish with a final curing of 30-60 seconds.. Then cut, file and shape before polishing. Again, I refer you to online how-to videos.

If you need to fake it to make it, I say go for it! KISS Full-Cover Nail Kits make it easy. They come with nail glue and are available in several shapes and sizes: square (shown below), oval and stiletto (i.e., pointy).

Don’t want to glue, cut, file and polish, try imPRESS Press-on nails. Press-ons have come a loooong way since we were kids. The nails by imPRESS and those by KISS come in countess shapes, lengths and colors, including an entire line of OPI colors. More importantly, they look totally natural and stay on a long time. I have a friend who uses them all the time, she loves them (J- you know who you are)…they really look amazing. Honestly, I would not have known they were press-ons if she hadn’t told me.

Back to gel – If you’ve applied a gel base and want to apply gel color polish, continue reading below. If you’ve applied a gel base and simply want to apply regular colored nail polish, which is what I do, go about your manicure the same way you apply regular color polish to natural nails, as noted above. Either way, do not forget to buff out the shine before polishing.

Gel Base Step Summary

• Prep – Prep clean, dry nails after cutting and filing by buffing the surface and cleaning away file dust with a nail brush. Put on nail forms if repairing or extending any nails.
• Dehydrator – Apply dehydrator to natural nails.
• Bonding Primer – Apply bonding primer to the entire nail, including any remaining gel if you’re doing a fill-in.
• Building/Hard Gel – Apply 1-3 coast of building gel, as needed, to build a gel base or fill-in an existing base that has grown out. Cure each coat of gel for 10 seconds to stabilize it and then finish with a final curing of 30-60 seconds.
• Wipe – Remove the sticky top layer of gel with isopropyl alcohol on a lint-free wipe.
• Buff – Use a file and/or buffing block to smooth, shape and remove the shiny top layer. If you don’t remove the shine, your polish won’t adhere and your mani won’t last.
• Clean – Clean away the filing dust with a nail brush.
• Polish – Begin applying regular nail polish as outlined above, or gel polish, see below.

Gel Polish

Whether you apply a gel base or not, a gel manicure requires you to prep the nails the same as you would for a gel base, as outlined above – gently buff the nail surface, apply dehydrator and gel bonder.

Then proceed to apply gel color in the same manner that you apply regular color polish with the exception that you need to cure your gel polish under the LED/UV light after each coat. That means apply one layer of base coat and cure, two coats of color and cure after each application, then top coat and cure again. 

After the top coat, when your nails are completely cured, the gel will have a sticky film that needs to be removed with isopropyl alcohol (70% or higher, 91% is best) on lint-free wipes (pictured above). Do not buff the top coat like you would with building gel, that is only done only BEFORE applying color polish.

Finish with cuticle cream or oil to moisturize your cuticles and nail beds (moisture is still absorbed through the cuticle and skin to the nail under your polish). More on the importance of cuticle care, below.

LED/UV Lamp

This is where the magic happens. You can’t cure a gel base or gel manicure without a good LED/UV lamp. 

How It Works

As if you haven’t guessed by now, I like to know how things work. I mean, how else am I going to know what features I need ? Besides, I’m sure you’re just a little curious too. So here is what I learned…

Gel contains polymers that react with the LED/UV light to cause a polymerization reaction. This reaction is what causes the gel to harden/cure. The reason I have LED and UV lumped together throughout this post is because they’re somewhat interchangeable – both emit UV wavelengths to cure gel. But LED lights produce narrower, more targeted wavelengths with more energy at a higher concentration. So LED lights cure more quickly. 

The main differences between LED and UV lights are:

• Cost – LED lamps generally cost a little more than UV
• Dry Time – LED lights dry/cure faster than UV
• Safety – Since LED lamps dry faster, you’re exposed to less UV
• Convenience – LED light bulbs last a lot longer than UV bulbs

Most gel polish brands these days will cure in either an LED or UV lamp, but some may only dry under UV. Some gels will only cure with a UV lamp. The same may hold true for older gel polish. So check the description before you buy.

Features to look for when buying an LED/UV lamp:

• Wattage – Get a high wattage for faster drying
• Timer Settings – You want several timer settings for flexible drying options
• Motion Sensors – Motion sensors will automatically turn the lights on when you put your hands in, and off when you take them out 
• Space – You want a lamp with enough space to comfortably fit your entire hand inside without risking touching the sides

After lots of research, I bought the SUN X Plus. This 80w lamp comes with 42 little violet LED light beads that don’t hurt your eyes or get hot, and it has a motion sensor. There are no dead zones (places where there are no lights), which means an even distribution of light and, therefore, even drying/curing. It has 4 timer settings (10, 30, 60 and 99 seconds, the last being a low heat mode) and is only $20. It works great!

There is enough space for my entire hand with my fingers spread so they don’t risk touching each other or the sides of the lamp. Another nice feature is the base of the lamp is magnetically attached so you can remove it to do your toes if you want to do a gel pedicure. Lastly, I appreciate the lay-flat handle that makes it easy to lift and move, such as from one foot to the other. 

Not only is this lamp effective at curing my building gel and gel polish, the heat from the lights helps cut down on the dry time of my regular nail polish by speeding the evaporation of the many solvents used in regular polish. If you happen to get an LED/UV light that includes a fan, that will also speed in drying regular polish.

Finish

Whether you’ve given yourself a gel or regular manicure, you should always finish with cuticle oil once your polish is dry. Think about how much abuse you’ve subjected your nails and cuticles to while preparing them for a manicure.

As if pushing your cuticles back wasn’t enough, nail polish remover is drying, as is all that filing. Plus, if you did a gel mani, the dehydrator you used to make sure your nails were oil free is also drying. 

So show your cuticles and your nails some love because there are lots of benefits to using cuticle cream or oil. And, as a stated above, even with polish or gel on, the moisture and reparative benefits do get to your natural nails through the cuticles and skin surrounding your nails. 

Benefits of Cuticle Cream or Oil

• Encourages Nail Growth – Cuticle oil is hydrating and the sheer act of massaging your cuticles and the skin surrounding your nails will increase circulation to your fingers, which helps to promote stronger, faster-growing nails. 
• Restores Moisture – Especially when applying gel, we create a very dry nail environment. Cuticle oils are filled with a variety of oils that work together to restore that lost moisture by hydrating your cuticles and your nails.
• Repairs and Heals – Cuticle oils tend to include an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial to prevent nail fungus as well as repair and protect the cuticle.
• Prevents Chipping – Cuticle cream and oil moisturize your nails as well as your cuticles. One of the main reasons polish, especially gel, will start to lift away from the nail is because the base area of your nails get too dry and the polish or gel starts to grow away from the nail. This can not only shorten the life of your manicure but it can allow water to get underneath leading to further lifting or, worse, fungus. 

Cuticle oils and creams are quick and easy to apply. Simply massage a drop into your cuticles and the skin surrounding your nails.

Tips To Make Your Manicure Last

• Do not soak your nails or give yourself a mani or pedi right after taking a bath. Your nails will retain water and expand. When the water evaporates, your nail plate shrinks and causes your polish to chip and pop off. 
• Wear gloves when doing the dishes.
• Properly prepare your nails before polishing or applying gel.
• Do not shake your polish bottle. I know it’s common practice, but shaking actually creates air bubbles. When you apply the polish, even though the bubbles may be undetectable, they will cause your polish to chip faster. Instead of shaking, roll the bottle between your palms with a rapid but smooth pace.
• Use a base coat and a top coat. 
• Avoid getting polish on your cuticles. It causes the polish to lift as your cuticles grow.
• Be sure to wrap the polish around the top edge of your nail tips. If you stop at the tip, it leaves them more prone to chips and cracks. By wrapping the tip, you create a seal that makes the manicure harder to damage. 
• Start applying polish to the thumb first, then go to the pinky finger and work your way in. This will reduce the risk smudging the nails you just painted with hand your using to apply the polish.
• Use quick dry top coat or quick dry drops to speed dry time.
• Finish your manicure by massaging cuticle oil into your cuticles and the skin surrounding your nails once your polish is dry.
• Keep your hands and cuticles well moisturized. Even regularly massaging hand cream into your cuticles and fingertips will help. 
• Reapply a layer of clear top coat to clean, dry nails every two to three days.
• NEVER PICK YOUR POLISH – Any time you pick or peel your polish, you are also removing a layer of your nail plate. This results in thinning, brittle, bendy nails that crack and break more easily. Can’t help yourself? Carry individually packaged nail polish remover wipes with you and just remove your polish the minute it begins to chip so you’re not tempted to peel it off. They’re available in acetone, non-acetone and a variety scents. Since you’d be using these on the go, I suggest buying pre-soaked acetone remover pads so the polish comes off quickly. The Diamond Wipes pictured below are highly rated and there are 50 individually wrapped wipes in a box for $10.50.
• DO NOT BITE YOUR NAILS – In addition to being unsanitary, it can lead to more colds and other illnesses due to the passing of bacteria and viruses from your fingers to your face and mouth. Biting your nails can also cause long-term nail damage, such as abnormal-looking nails, as well as harm your teeth by leading to chipping and misalignment. Here are some suggestions how to stop biting your nails: keep your nails short, coat them with a bitter polish specifically designed to help stop nail biting (below are two highly recommend bitter polishes), wear gloves (when feasible), replace the habit with something like gum or mints, and try to identify and treat triggers, like anxiety or boredom.

Supply Summary

• Nail Polish Remover – Acetone and/or Acetone
• Spill-Proof Pump Dispensers
• Gel Remover Clips or Foils
• Angled Nail Clipper
• Regular Nail Clipper
• Cuticle Pusher
• Cuticle Cutters
• Nail Files/Emery Boards
• Buffing Blocks
• Electric File Drill
• File Dust collector
• Kabuki Brush or Nail Brush
• Dehydrator
• Bonding Primer
• LED/UV Lamp
• Isopropyl Alcohol
• Lint-free Pads/Wipes
• Gel in a Bottle or Pot
• Artist’s Brush for Pot Gel
• Gel Base Coat
• Gel Color
• Gel Top Coat
• Regular Base Coat
• Regular Color Polish
• Regular Top Coat
• Quick Dry
• Cuticle Oil or Cream

I hope this post sets you up for happy healthy nails and many marvelous manicures. Please let me know if you found it helpful or have any useful tips/feedback to share. I’d also love to know about any great products you use as well as what your favorite nail polish brand is.